MTT Mastery
Module 1)
Studying Poker
- Atleast 80/20 Play vs Study- playing let us know which spots are our weaknesses
- WE SHOULD BE IMPROVING EVERY TIME WE PLAY
-> if we are not learning and getting better then: could be too many tables or not focused enough
- every time we make the right/wrong river calls we should study the spot to get better (learning while playing)
- we do not have to be the 'perfect' player to be able to make money: do not need to be the perfect to play a lot: get the volume in!
- Play thousands of tournaments per month, be aware of our mistakes so we can learn in game or tag them for later reviews
How to Study Effectively
- reviewing hand history + watch training videos + 1 on 1 coaching
- ANY TIME WE ARE UNSURE OF A SPOT- TAG IT! (e.g. BU vs CO range- should I 3bet KJo here? or flat?)
- we always need to take into account the player we are playing against in order to give them a range
-> if we know exactly what someone is calling with 10bb BB vs SB we can shove perfectly
- try to make GOOD ASSUMPTIONS- however just focus on studying hands with little assumptions
Study common spots- not 'unique' spots
- we cannot study weird and random spots
-> we want to study spots which can help us in the future: flop c-betting, flop sizing, pot odds, implied odds etc.
Take notes "what I learned"
- everytime we learn something, WRITE IT DOWN in order to remember it better!
- write it down to build foundation of poker knowledge even if its something we already know
What to Study for MTTs?
-Focus on Preflop
-> Opening ranges for different stacks, ICM opening ranges
-> Mastering Preflop All ins (equity, jam ranges, rejamming ranges vs different player types and how to make adjustments)
-Focus on 0-30bbs (most important)
-> learn how to play 20bb stack before learning 200bb stack!
-> when we have 100bb+ we are just playing solid and waiting for fish to PUNT their stack
-Study spots where we are playing for the most money!
-> Final table ICM spots: calling ranges, jamming ranges, rejam ranges, what changes with shortstacks and different stack sizes.
-> Heads up
-> PSKO spots
-Study fundamentals, equity, pot odds, counting outs
-> pot odds, implied odds, reverse implied odds
e.g. implied odds when another play is already all in is 0 therefore we can fold draws which does not have immediate equity to call
What Software to Study With?
-ICMIZER (use to study rejam spots- giving opponent realistic opening and calling ranges)
-> learn push/fold, reshoving, ICM calculations, SNG training
-> watch video for demo
-> need to edit the opening range manually (e.g. open shoving can remove AA-QQ from their range)
-> if villain is raise folding too much, we can shove super wide very profitably
-> if villain is raising too tight, our shove become -EV as their range is too strong for us to rejam
Power-Equilab
-> range vs range equity training
-> calculating equity on different flop textures
-> calculating the equity of our hand vs villain's range
PioSolver
-> unnecessary software for low stakes
-> good for higher stakes
-> learn what cards are good to barrel/not
-> use solely for evaluating flop cbet
-> plug in range vs range in order to find out the cbet frequency on the flop in order to be at the right frequency on the turn
Module 2)
Game Selection
-being good at the game means nothing for profit as we only make money when our skill is higher relative to our opponents
-PLAY 33 dollars or lower to start!
- DO NOT CHASE BIG SCORES
How to Game Select?
- focus on small fields (way less variance!)
- focus on small buy ins (0-33) [all the softest games online]- USUALLY POKERSTARS
- play more on Fridays and Saturdays (FRIDAY IS SOFTEST)
- play more sites (more good MTTs to play)- 888- 33 big fish
- avoid re-entry MTTs (only re enter bottom of our buy-in range)
Module 3)
Bankroll Management
How to build a bankroll
- sticking to our limits (0-33 on Pokerstars)
- have patience and trust the process
- avoid short term results
- smaller MTTs (also give experience when playing FT)
- play on GG and PartyPoker
- find games with smaller rakes (PartyPoker) unless the field is the softest
Bankroll Chart
$10,000-$15,000
$44 reg speed, $55 PSKO, $33 turbos/hypers, take shots at soft majors (Sunday Million), no rebuy/re-entry above $33
$15,000-$25,000
$55 reg speed, $82 PSKO, $44 turbos/hypers, take shots at soft $109s and majors, no rebuy/re-entry above $44
Module 4)
Softwares
HUD and Database
-PokerTracker
Equity Training Software
-ICMIZER
TableNinja, Stars Caption and Party Caption
-make MTTs much easier!
PioSolver
-useful learning tool to interpret data
Power-Equilab
Module 5)
Volume and Table Count
VOLUME IS KING
- volume is how we get paid as a poker player
- enough volume is the only way to guarantee you make money
- playing enough volume will help reduce variance
Volume Targets ($0-$33)
10,000+ games per year or 800+ per month
- if we play MTTSNGs (180s) we can play for over 1500 per month
($55+)
6000+ games per year or 500+ games per month
- less tables played to counter balance tougher games
How many tables at a time?
0-6 tables:
-playing at higher buy-ins
-playing improve while getting some volume
6-8 tables:
-can load more marginal games or SNGs
8-12 tables:
-RECOMMENDED FOR MTT Grinder
12-15 tables:
180s or on-demands
Mindset
-always study spots which we busted out on
-> is it the correct play? Is there any lower variance route?
-always think in the long run!
Module 2)
PREFLOP
1. Opening Ranges (watch video)
(30bb)
UTG: 66+, ATo, Axs, K9s+
MP: K6s+, QTo, JTo+, 55+
HJ: K5s, Q7s, T7s, A8o, 44+
CO: K3s, Q5s, J7s, A5o+, 33+
BU: Any Axo, K2s, Q3s, J4s, T5s, 96s...
SB: limp/raise range, limping high equity hands that we can call a 3.5x raise with
-raise the strongest and weakest non-suited baby broadways + suited low cards (AA and Q5o and 52s)- for unsuited baby broadways we want to keep the pot small therefore we limp
(20bb)
- if we know villain is open shoving with 22-44 on CO or BU, we can exploit them by calling wider (T9s, KTs) as we have over 50% equity vs that range
- STOP OVERPLAYING SMALL PAIRS ON CO
- on BU, we want to open shove with JTs, QTs, baby Axs, A7o-ATo and small pocket pairs as we do not want to raise fold these hands and raise calling is too weak
- if we raise KJs on BU and get shoved on, we are always calling 20bb
- SB: we want to open jam most unsuited Ax and small pocket pairs
(15bb)
- usually tighter than 30bb range
UTG: A5s+, ATo+, 66+
MP: we can start open jamming suited broadways (JTs- KJs) and small pocket pairs 55-77
HJ: open shoving most pairs (33-77) and all suited broadways + AJo-AQo
CO: open shoving any pair, A7o+, suited broadways and baby Axs (raise calling the rest)
BU: open shoving all offsuit Ax, suited baby Ax and all pairs + suited big connectors (T9s etc)
SB: jamming small pairs, suited connectors, all non-suited Ax, some suited Ax, Kx and Qx
2. Opening Fundamentals
There are 2 reasons to open raise preflop:
1) Our hand is good enough given our position
2) We have enough fold equity to open wider
So when to open looser?
1) Weak players behind (especially in the blinds)
2) Whale/Punter behind in any position
3) PSKO (Bounties) considerations
4) Bubbles/deep stage pressure
So when to open tighter?
1) Good players behind- especially more aggressive players behind/on the BTN
- we need to have a plan vs their strategy (e.g. 4betting vs aggro 3bet etc.)
2) When we have large Bounty
3) Bubble when we have mid stack vs large stacks on our left
Open Sizing
-usually 2-2.3x
Adjusting?
-if BB stack size is very low (5-9bb) then we can open bigger size preflop to avoid giving them good price to defend junk
vs SB limps
15bb or less: 3x
15-40bb: 3.5x
40bb+: 4xvcv
vs limpers, we want to add 1bb for each limper (e.g. 2 limpers we raise to 4.3x instead of 2.3x)
If we're OOP, we want to add 1.5bb per limper
Watch for micro stacked players (2.5bb etc.)
- here we want to raise to match their stack otherwise we will not have the option to re raise after they jam
Other Considerations
Tighter player behind: we favor blocker type steal
Looser player behind: favor implied odds type hands
Deeper stacked: implied odds hands
Shorter stacked: value blockers + high card type hands
Use table dynamic and FORESIGHT
-looking ahead at what potential thing might happen in the hand
-> look for tilts in other players
-> in bounty tournaments we can overcall wider as people tend to reshove way wider with their whole range
3. Defending Ranges
30bb we want to start 3bet shoving vs wide opener (all pocket pairs, good AXs)
- BB vs SB 3.5x we still want to defend pretty wide as we're IP + we want to shove top parts of our range
20bb vs UTG open we can 3bet small-ish in order for them to hit the flop and we can stack them easier as SPR is low
20bb we can reshove wider (all pairs vs later position + aggressive opener)
-> we may choose to reshove QTs and JTs as it is too weak to 3bet call but too strong to just call and fold to flop cbet
ONLY RESHOVE WIDER VS VILLAIN WHO IS OPENING WIDE (high RFI%)
-BB vs SB limp, we want to keep some AX in our check back range (baby AXs)
15bb- do not reshove all pocket pairs vs early position open (especially deep in tournaments)- this is very high variance and we are mostly just flipping at best!
-BB vs SB limp we can raise fold hands to steal (Q4o, J4o)
4. Defending Fundamentals
- think about how our range play vs their opening range
-> e.g. 87o is better vs tight range and K5o is better vs looser range (late position)
- think in terms of RFI% rather than solely position
-> 45% = BU range
-> 25% = MP range
vs Fish opening: defend more
vs Reg opening: fold more
+ defend less vs 3x opening size (K8o etc.)
ALWAYS CONSIDER ICM
- we play wider when having larger stacks
- we play tigher with mid to low stacks
CONSIDER BOUNTY
-if they cover you: harder to realize equity therefore we play tighter
-if we cover them: some % of time we bust them therefore we play wider
5. 3Betting & Flatting Ranges (30bb)
-we want to turn the bottom of our calling range into a bluff
-> e.g. ATo, Q9s, A2s (SB vs UTG)
- vs later opening position, we can 3bet wider for both value and bluffs
-> SB vs CO, BU we can start shoving most suited broadways, AXs, high AXo and most pairs
ALWAYS LOOK AT THEIR RFI% IN ORDER TO DECIDE TO SHOVE OR NOT
BTN: we 3bet bluff ATo and A3s-A5s as a bluff and 3bet for value all our stronger hands
-we can flat QJo+ and most suited broadway and connectors
-vs CO open we can start jamming middle pair hands (77-88) and flat most other hands
CO: we 3bet linear range + some bluffs that would be at the bottom of our calling range (ATo, Q9s etc.)
HJ: same as CO- we 3bet our strongest hands + hands that are at the bottom of our calling range as a bluff
UTG+1 vs UTG: we want to start 3bet bluffing KTs, A9s and AJo as ATo is not in our calling range therefore we will not include it in our range
6. 3Betting Fundamentals
For value: happy to stack off vs 4bet
As a bluff: generally bottom of our range with some blockers
In low stakes, DO NOT worry about balancing therefore if we have a hand that wants to see a flop: just FLAT
Late stages of MTT: 3BET BLUFF MUCH MORE as they will need to 4bet shove as a counter strategy which most are not willing to risk their tournament life than to be exploited!
- we can play very aggressively in general
"what does this player have to do to counter my strategy? If it is very risky they will not be able to do it!"
3Bet Sizing
IP: 3x
OOP: 4x
Adjusting higher or lower depending on the effective stack sizes
-For BB we should 3bet biggest sizing and split the range properly
Reasons to 3bet preflop:
-build history with opponent: helps get paid off when we have a loose image
-makes us tough to play against (do we like getting 3betted? No? That is being hard to play against)
-isolating players and getting the pot heads up/clearing our equity
-taking initiatives with flop cbets and turn barrels
7. Flatting Fundamentals
-generally hands strong enough to vpip vs open but not good enough to 3bet for value + too good to 3bet as a bluff
-in ICM we may want to flat more hands rather than 3bet
Passive table: flat more hands (no aggro players to 3bet squeeze often)
Good spots to TRAP monsters preflop:
1) Aggressive players behind (BTN, Blinds)- make sure villain has a stack of (40bb+) as 20bb villain are often not 3bet shoving often enough
2) PSKO with players behind shortstacked with big bounty
3) Flatting as a trap from earlier position is better as there are more players behind to squeeze
4) The more shortstacks behind the more the value of flatting as a trap goes up (does not have to be an aggro opponent!)
-> aggro squeezer - more than 30bb and normal players with 20bb or less
8. Squeezing Fundamentals
-Only squeeze value hands in low/mid stakes
Squeezing weak hands: only do it in classic spots such as SB/BTN vs MP open and late position flat
-we would be doing more flatting in BB (never bluff squeeze off BB in low stakes)
-> only do this in late stages/final tables when pressure is high and fish will be folding (earlier stages fish are never folding!)
Spots to squeeze:
1) Loose opener (high RFI%)
2) Loose/passive with large VPIP/PFR gap
3) Later positions for both flatter and opener
4) We are on BTN or SB
Playing vs a Squeeze
-if they are normal/tight stats: we play very straight forward and just fold (do not worry about getting exploited)
-if they are aggro and capable: fold the bottom of our range, flat good hands + include some shoving hands with good blockers (vs very aggro 3bettors)
-just think someone is representing vs how likely they will have that range
-> e.g. chip leader on FT may be over 3betting than other spots
-if they are in the non standard steal position (EP and MP) then we can give them credit and not be sticky.. EVEN IF THEY ARE LOOSE AND AGGRO
9. Push/Fold Fundamentals
-good players take risks for relatively small edges (knowing when to push or call all-ins)
DO NOT TAKE EVERY +EV CHIP SPOT (we do not want to invest too marginal spots)
-> always think "is this worth risking my tournament life in this spot?"- "can I find a better spot?"
STOP JAMMING SMALL PAIRS UTG (15bb+)
Open shoving tighter if we have big bounty on our head + if ICM is high
Reshoving (always look at their RFI and calling preflop GAP)
Factors to consider:
-how many players behind? (more players behind = tighter we have to play)
-their RFI% stats
-> game scenario (if it is stone bubble and chip leader raised)
-their RFI% and calling shove% gap (the higher = the more we can reshove)
-if their gap is high that means they will be raise folding A LOT: therefore we can exploit this by reshoving very wide
10. General Preflop Tips
a) if a fish vary their preflop sizes, larger usually means better hands
b) a fish coldcalling a jam is usually weak especially in PSKO
c) people trap way less than we think (do not make many massive preflop folds)
d) people induce a lot less than they do and if we see it we should always note it (e.g. if we see open jam 15bb with JJ we can suspect they only induce with QQ+ at most)
Golden Rule PostFlop
1. Our perceived range is the most important factor
2. Always play the line we believe is the most profitable
3. Do not get sticky in spots they are never bluffing
4. Give up barrels early game and bluff barrel more during late game
5. Be aware of opponents' preflop range at all times
6. Avoid lines that we do not realize equity of our draws (e.g. check raise OESD and having to fold when getting shoved on)
7. IP: betting more frequent at smaller sizes
8. OOP: betting less frequent at bigger sizes
BE THE PLAYER PUTTING PEOPLE IN TOUGH SPOTS
BUT: we are FOLDING when others are doing it to us
Playing Flop IP
-Value betting, bluffing, semi-bluffing and protection bet
Adjustments for IP: betting more often at smaller sizing in general
SPR: is their stack going to check jam often?
Do I have good barrel opportunities? (backdoor draws etc.)
What is their check/raise% from BB?
Villain's fold to cbet stat
Is my hand good enough for 3 streets? If no we can start by checking flop
What position is villain's range?
-visualize this and adjust according to board texture (do not auto pilot)
Blockers when cbetting
-blocking front door and backdoor draws (meaning villain cannot continue or check jam on us)
e.g. KsTd on 6dJs8s
-use this theory when deciding whether to bet a certain hand or not
Checking back flop
-hands that can continue turns but not enough to start value betting flop
-hands with lots of equity but do not want to get check raised
-pure air hands (has no equity and not enough fold equity)
-pot control (hands that do not have 3 streets: good for late stages and ICM spots)
-traps (look at what hands we're blocking when deciding to trap)
Facing Flop Check raise
-proper cbet% is already a counter to checkraises (have a good cbet frequency!)
-pay attention to who is checkraising, if it is a tight fish/reg we do not want to defend too many marginal hands as they are underbluffing
-focus on board texture, where certain board texture are way underbluffed on and others are overbluffed by population
GENERALLY: the drier the board the more checkraise bluffing and vice versa
e.g. Q72rb is less bluffed on than 673rb etc
-continue with hands that has good backdoor equity as we may pick up more equity to give us easy turn calls where it forces villain to either let us get to showdown or triple barrel bluff
-fastplay good hands on wet board textures + consider how aggro villain is to barrel multistreet bluffs
-slowplay our strong hands on dry textures vs aggro check raisers
FOLD THE BOTTOM OF OUR RANGE EACH STREET
Barrelling Turn
When to continue as a bluff?
-scare cards (cards that are perceived to hit our range + are bad for opponent's flop call range)
-pressure + deep in tournaments
-when we pick up equity (usually our backdoors)
-> however, look at SPR and how likely they are check/jamming in order for us to not get blown off our equity (generally check back when SPR is low to realize our equity)
When to continue for value?
-3 streets of value hands (make sure sizing for river jam)
-to buy a showdown: marginal value hands that do not want to face a large river lead
-protection: hands that are not good enough for 3 streets but still want to charge draws + protect our equity
Bluffing River
6 factors to consider:
1) Do I have any showdown value? No- consider a bluff
2) Am I at the bottom of my range? Having the bottom hands does not mean we should always bluff: it gives a good indication for frequencies as we are value betting top of our range
3) Has my opponent shown weakness? think about the line they took and whether they showed weakness at some point indicating a weak range (if yes it is harder for them to call our bluff)
4) Can I represent a value bet? If we bet the river what does our range look like?
-> always think about what level villain may be and even if we represent a strong range a fish may not be able to figure that out
5) Do I block any of their best value combos? e.g. blocking the nut flush
6) Tournament stage pressure or ICM pressure? e.g. putting opponent to call for their tournament life on the FT or very deep stage
The more factors going for us, the better our bluffing would be
If only has 1-2 factors then we may be selective with our bluffing hands or avoid bluffing completely
If we have 3-4 factors going for us we can still bluff but we also need to give up some hands
If 5-6 factors, we need to bluff
Bluff Sizings
-always think what we're trying to make them fold
-> weak hand/busted draw? --- bet small (25% to 50% pot)
-> big hands such as top pairs/middle pairs or better? --- bet big (75% to overbet)
-think about what line they took and how strong their range is
-> if they showed a lot of strength then we then we need to bet bigger (overbet) and if they show a lot of weakness then betting small is all what is needed
-consider blockers: block most nutted hands = bet BIG, block no nutted hand but do not block missed draw? bet small
Consider who we are trying to bluff: vs fish we want to underbluff and bet small when bluffing
- when we have value bet we just size it up vs these stations!
Cbetting OOP
Key Adjustments from IP
-much lower frequency
-> 65% IP and 35% OOP
-vs good opponents they will float and raise wide and exploit us
-vs weaker players we can still cbet wide OOP
-cbet % highest vs BTN and lowest % vs UTG1 (the earlier the position flatting the less we can cbet)
POLARIZED RANGE WHEN CBETTING OOP
-usually bet bigger sizings OOP
-cbet hands that have barrel opportunities when OOP to counter wide flop floats (plan to double barrel often)
-if we have 3 streets: bet bet bet from OOP
Check-Raising OOP
Check Raising as PFA: polarized range
-hands that are good enough to check/raise and bet turn + jam river (for both value and bluffs)
-best flops to attack on:
1) high card with 2 medium low cards- Q73r, K93r J54r, T23r
-> players will often over stab these boards when checked to
2) best hands for our bluffs: 2 overcards (AK on Q52) or 1 over with backdoor flushdraw (AJdd on Q52d)
Check Raising as Cold Caller
-pay attention to what position opened and what their range is
-look at board texture and see whether flop is good or bad for their range
-> if board texture is bad for their range and they have high cbet% we can over check raise them to exploit
* best hands to use as bluffs *
- 1 over + backdoor flush draws (K7dd on Q56d) (Q9hh on J57h)
-If we do not have enough equity to go all in with our flush draws (undercard flush draws) then do not raise these draws! (DO NOT RAISE OESD and FD if SPR is small except if we want to stack off happily)
-Do not use gutshots as bluffs unless it is a very weak gutshots (better as floats)
RAISE HANDS THAT HAS NO IMPLIED ODDS
* best hands to use for value*
-from later position (BB vs BTN/CO), any decent top pair (Q57, QT+ for value)
-from earlier positions we need to be more polarized as we are facing a tighter range (KQ on Q52 vs UTG would be marginal but vs BTN would be printing)
As a rule: check raise bluff vs fish WAY MORE and be more balanced vs regs+ lean towards value vs aggro/sticky regs
Checking Flop OOP
-give up total air especially on boards that favor our opponent (A2dd on Q5Thh)- here we are always check folding
Check Calling Flop
-hands with 2 streets of value (QTs on QJ5r)
-underpairs to top pair (99 on J84r)
-Ace highs, AK/AQ on T82 vs small bets (we can also check raise these hands if we have backdoors)
-include traps vs spewy opponents (e,g, AJ on J82 when villain is very loose and aggressive)
-when we check/call people will perceive us as weak thus barrel off more often (we need to have good FORESIGHT therefore we can start trapping)
-think about what hands we're blocking when going for traps (e.g. JJ on J53 may be a good trap while 55 will make more sense to play straight forward)
Playing Turns OOP
Use hand reading skills and range awareness
-did the turn card improve his range or mine?
-do I have equity to value bet or fold equity to bluff?
Think of the starting range and narrow that range down each street based on the actions
-in general overcard to flop top pair will be better for the aggressors range (K turn on J54)
-> do not be scared to still value bet our flop top pairs and flop overpairs as we still have many natural bluffs in these spots
-when the turn card completely changes the board texture we need to re evaluate and be more careful with both value and bluffs
e.g. J92ss board and turn is 7s or Qx or 8x or Jx
-> all of these cards completely changes the board thus AA becomes passive hand
-> here our bluffs need to be around premium blockers to obvious draws when the texture changes (e.g. nut flush draws so they cannot continue)
-on brick turn and rivers, we want to unblock draws in order to bluff as we want villain to have many snap folds
Turn Bet Sizings
-are we setting up river all in?
-> plan sizing accordingly for us to go all in on the river
-size up on wet board textures especially double flush draws or flush draw with 3 straight cards
(we want to pick a sizing that makes their draws have a tough decision)
-Only bet small sizing (25%) on boards that have a lock on the hand (4 spades or 9943r)
Hero Calls/Folds
"Does the line make sense?"
-easiest way to spot a line that does not add up is when they are taking actions on boards that do not match with their preflop range
-Their sizings
-> players often pick different sizes when they are bluffing vs when they are valuebetting
-Betting big to act "strong" and betting small to act "weak"
-Our perceived range
-> if villain thinks we have a good hand they will not try to make us fold
-villain only tries to bluff us when our perceived range is weak
-> always think what "it looks like we have" in villain's eyes which can be the key to figuring out the psychology behind the actions
-Their perceived range
-> what they think we think they have
-> if their range is perceived strong they may have higher bluffing frequency (only for regs)
-Big stack bluff syndrome
-> players are much more likely to bluff all in when its not their stack at risk
Piecing All of This Together
-look at all of the factors rather than just separate ones
Other factors to consider:
- Timing (very quick all ins could mean that they often have it)
- Game flow (who's been winning/losing and who's on tilt etc.)
- Opponent history (if villain sees us bluffing vs them they will adjust)
- Population tendencies (some spots are just no bluffs)
- Opponent hud stats/average buy-in
If we're not sure just make the FOLD
-if we want to be the best player, we need to do things other players are afraid of doing
PSKO
-play much looser if we cover bounties behind
-play A LOT tighter when you are below 30BB (shortstacked)
-jamming ranges change significantly depending on our bounty (jamming TIGHTER shortstacked with bounty)
-> 98s maybe a open shove in freezeout 10BB but be a fold in PSKO
-> therefore we want to have high card hands when open shoving rather than marginal hands
-play postflop to get bounty by the river (bet big instead of 30% etc.)- only if bounty is quite big
-preflop TRAPPING is key in PSKO! we should have a strong flatting range is good vs many shortstacks behind
-do not chase bounties too wide especially when it is relatively small
-> also do not chase bounties too wide closer to the win as chips are worth more than the bounties
-should aim to survive in late stages of PSKO rather than collecting bounties
Adjusting your range drastically with very short bounty behind (players will open wider, 3bet wider and 4bet wider so on)
Never bluff all-in when we're covered by a fish for our bounty (especially vs a fish)
Defending wider when we're covering and defending tighter if we're covered
Final Tables
-avoid raise folding with shortstacked (less than 20bb) as villain is more incentivised to 3bet wider
-if we are a big stack and we see a mid stack open raising too wide we can exploit this by 3bet jamming very wide (ICM)
Studying Poker
- Atleast 80/20 Play vs Study- playing let us know which spots are our weaknesses
- WE SHOULD BE IMPROVING EVERY TIME WE PLAY
-> if we are not learning and getting better then: could be too many tables or not focused enough
- every time we make the right/wrong river calls we should study the spot to get better (learning while playing)
- we do not have to be the 'perfect' player to be able to make money: do not need to be the perfect to play a lot: get the volume in!
- Play thousands of tournaments per month, be aware of our mistakes so we can learn in game or tag them for later reviews
How to Study Effectively
- reviewing hand history + watch training videos + 1 on 1 coaching
- ANY TIME WE ARE UNSURE OF A SPOT- TAG IT! (e.g. BU vs CO range- should I 3bet KJo here? or flat?)
- we always need to take into account the player we are playing against in order to give them a range
-> if we know exactly what someone is calling with 10bb BB vs SB we can shove perfectly
- try to make GOOD ASSUMPTIONS- however just focus on studying hands with little assumptions
Study common spots- not 'unique' spots
- we cannot study weird and random spots
-> we want to study spots which can help us in the future: flop c-betting, flop sizing, pot odds, implied odds etc.
Take notes "what I learned"
- everytime we learn something, WRITE IT DOWN in order to remember it better!
- write it down to build foundation of poker knowledge even if its something we already know
What to Study for MTTs?
-Focus on Preflop
-> Opening ranges for different stacks, ICM opening ranges
-> Mastering Preflop All ins (equity, jam ranges, rejamming ranges vs different player types and how to make adjustments)
-Focus on 0-30bbs (most important)
-> learn how to play 20bb stack before learning 200bb stack!
-> when we have 100bb+ we are just playing solid and waiting for fish to PUNT their stack
-Study spots where we are playing for the most money!
-> Final table ICM spots: calling ranges, jamming ranges, rejam ranges, what changes with shortstacks and different stack sizes.
-> Heads up
-> PSKO spots
-Study fundamentals, equity, pot odds, counting outs
-> pot odds, implied odds, reverse implied odds
e.g. implied odds when another play is already all in is 0 therefore we can fold draws which does not have immediate equity to call
What Software to Study With?
-ICMIZER (use to study rejam spots- giving opponent realistic opening and calling ranges)
-> learn push/fold, reshoving, ICM calculations, SNG training
-> watch video for demo
-> need to edit the opening range manually (e.g. open shoving can remove AA-QQ from their range)
-> if villain is raise folding too much, we can shove super wide very profitably
-> if villain is raising too tight, our shove become -EV as their range is too strong for us to rejam
Power-Equilab
-> range vs range equity training
-> calculating equity on different flop textures
-> calculating the equity of our hand vs villain's range
PioSolver
-> unnecessary software for low stakes
-> good for higher stakes
-> learn what cards are good to barrel/not
-> use solely for evaluating flop cbet
-> plug in range vs range in order to find out the cbet frequency on the flop in order to be at the right frequency on the turn
Module 2)
Game Selection
-being good at the game means nothing for profit as we only make money when our skill is higher relative to our opponents
-PLAY 33 dollars or lower to start!
- DO NOT CHASE BIG SCORES
How to Game Select?
- focus on small fields (way less variance!)
- focus on small buy ins (0-33) [all the softest games online]- USUALLY POKERSTARS
- play more on Fridays and Saturdays (FRIDAY IS SOFTEST)
- play more sites (more good MTTs to play)- 888- 33 big fish
- avoid re-entry MTTs (only re enter bottom of our buy-in range)
Module 3)
Bankroll Management
How to build a bankroll
- sticking to our limits (0-33 on Pokerstars)
- have patience and trust the process
- avoid short term results
- smaller MTTs (also give experience when playing FT)
- play on GG and PartyPoker
- find games with smaller rakes (PartyPoker) unless the field is the softest
$10,000-$15,000
$44 reg speed, $55 PSKO, $33 turbos/hypers, take shots at soft majors (Sunday Million), no rebuy/re-entry above $33
$15,000-$25,000
$55 reg speed, $82 PSKO, $44 turbos/hypers, take shots at soft $109s and majors, no rebuy/re-entry above $44
Module 4)
Softwares
HUD and Database
-PokerTracker
Equity Training Software
-ICMIZER
TableNinja, Stars Caption and Party Caption
-make MTTs much easier!
PioSolver
-useful learning tool to interpret data
Power-Equilab
Module 5)
Volume and Table Count
VOLUME IS KING
- volume is how we get paid as a poker player
- enough volume is the only way to guarantee you make money
- playing enough volume will help reduce variance
Volume Targets ($0-$33)
10,000+ games per year or 800+ per month
- if we play MTTSNGs (180s) we can play for over 1500 per month
($55+)
6000+ games per year or 500+ games per month
- less tables played to counter balance tougher games
How many tables at a time?
0-6 tables:
-playing at higher buy-ins
-playing improve while getting some volume
6-8 tables:
-can load more marginal games or SNGs
8-12 tables:
-RECOMMENDED FOR MTT Grinder
12-15 tables:
180s or on-demands
Mindset
-always study spots which we busted out on
-> is it the correct play? Is there any lower variance route?
-always think in the long run!
Module 2)
PREFLOP
1. Opening Ranges (watch video)
(30bb)
UTG: 66+, ATo, Axs, K9s+
MP: K6s+, QTo, JTo+, 55+
HJ: K5s, Q7s, T7s, A8o, 44+
CO: K3s, Q5s, J7s, A5o+, 33+
BU: Any Axo, K2s, Q3s, J4s, T5s, 96s...
SB: limp/raise range, limping high equity hands that we can call a 3.5x raise with
-raise the strongest and weakest non-suited baby broadways + suited low cards (AA and Q5o and 52s)- for unsuited baby broadways we want to keep the pot small therefore we limp
(20bb)
- if we know villain is open shoving with 22-44 on CO or BU, we can exploit them by calling wider (T9s, KTs) as we have over 50% equity vs that range
- STOP OVERPLAYING SMALL PAIRS ON CO
- on BU, we want to open shove with JTs, QTs, baby Axs, A7o-ATo and small pocket pairs as we do not want to raise fold these hands and raise calling is too weak
- if we raise KJs on BU and get shoved on, we are always calling 20bb
- SB: we want to open jam most unsuited Ax and small pocket pairs
(15bb)
- usually tighter than 30bb range
UTG: A5s+, ATo+, 66+
MP: we can start open jamming suited broadways (JTs- KJs) and small pocket pairs 55-77
HJ: open shoving most pairs (33-77) and all suited broadways + AJo-AQo
CO: open shoving any pair, A7o+, suited broadways and baby Axs (raise calling the rest)
BU: open shoving all offsuit Ax, suited baby Ax and all pairs + suited big connectors (T9s etc)
SB: jamming small pairs, suited connectors, all non-suited Ax, some suited Ax, Kx and Qx
2. Opening Fundamentals
There are 2 reasons to open raise preflop:
1) Our hand is good enough given our position
2) We have enough fold equity to open wider
So when to open looser?
1) Weak players behind (especially in the blinds)
2) Whale/Punter behind in any position
3) PSKO (Bounties) considerations
4) Bubbles/deep stage pressure
So when to open tighter?
1) Good players behind- especially more aggressive players behind/on the BTN
- we need to have a plan vs their strategy (e.g. 4betting vs aggro 3bet etc.)
2) When we have large Bounty
3) Bubble when we have mid stack vs large stacks on our left
Open Sizing
-usually 2-2.3x
Adjusting?
-if BB stack size is very low (5-9bb) then we can open bigger size preflop to avoid giving them good price to defend junk
vs SB limps
15bb or less: 3x
15-40bb: 3.5x
40bb+: 4xvcv
vs limpers, we want to add 1bb for each limper (e.g. 2 limpers we raise to 4.3x instead of 2.3x)
If we're OOP, we want to add 1.5bb per limper
Watch for micro stacked players (2.5bb etc.)
- here we want to raise to match their stack otherwise we will not have the option to re raise after they jam
Other Considerations
Tighter player behind: we favor blocker type steal
Looser player behind: favor implied odds type hands
Deeper stacked: implied odds hands
Shorter stacked: value blockers + high card type hands
Use table dynamic and FORESIGHT
-looking ahead at what potential thing might happen in the hand
-> look for tilts in other players
-> in bounty tournaments we can overcall wider as people tend to reshove way wider with their whole range
3. Defending Ranges
30bb we want to start 3bet shoving vs wide opener (all pocket pairs, good AXs)
- BB vs SB 3.5x we still want to defend pretty wide as we're IP + we want to shove top parts of our range
20bb vs UTG open we can 3bet small-ish in order for them to hit the flop and we can stack them easier as SPR is low
20bb we can reshove wider (all pairs vs later position + aggressive opener)
-> we may choose to reshove QTs and JTs as it is too weak to 3bet call but too strong to just call and fold to flop cbet
ONLY RESHOVE WIDER VS VILLAIN WHO IS OPENING WIDE (high RFI%)
-BB vs SB limp, we want to keep some AX in our check back range (baby AXs)
15bb- do not reshove all pocket pairs vs early position open (especially deep in tournaments)- this is very high variance and we are mostly just flipping at best!
-BB vs SB limp we can raise fold hands to steal (Q4o, J4o)
4. Defending Fundamentals
- think about how our range play vs their opening range
-> e.g. 87o is better vs tight range and K5o is better vs looser range (late position)
- think in terms of RFI% rather than solely position
-> 45% = BU range
-> 25% = MP range
vs Fish opening: defend more
vs Reg opening: fold more
+ defend less vs 3x opening size (K8o etc.)
ALWAYS CONSIDER ICM
- we play wider when having larger stacks
- we play tigher with mid to low stacks
CONSIDER BOUNTY
-if they cover you: harder to realize equity therefore we play tighter
-if we cover them: some % of time we bust them therefore we play wider
5. 3Betting & Flatting Ranges (30bb)
-we want to turn the bottom of our calling range into a bluff
-> e.g. ATo, Q9s, A2s (SB vs UTG)
- vs later opening position, we can 3bet wider for both value and bluffs
-> SB vs CO, BU we can start shoving most suited broadways, AXs, high AXo and most pairs
ALWAYS LOOK AT THEIR RFI% IN ORDER TO DECIDE TO SHOVE OR NOT
BTN: we 3bet bluff ATo and A3s-A5s as a bluff and 3bet for value all our stronger hands
-we can flat QJo+ and most suited broadway and connectors
-vs CO open we can start jamming middle pair hands (77-88) and flat most other hands
CO: we 3bet linear range + some bluffs that would be at the bottom of our calling range (ATo, Q9s etc.)
HJ: same as CO- we 3bet our strongest hands + hands that are at the bottom of our calling range as a bluff
UTG+1 vs UTG: we want to start 3bet bluffing KTs, A9s and AJo as ATo is not in our calling range therefore we will not include it in our range
6. 3Betting Fundamentals
For value: happy to stack off vs 4bet
As a bluff: generally bottom of our range with some blockers
In low stakes, DO NOT worry about balancing therefore if we have a hand that wants to see a flop: just FLAT
Late stages of MTT: 3BET BLUFF MUCH MORE as they will need to 4bet shove as a counter strategy which most are not willing to risk their tournament life than to be exploited!
- we can play very aggressively in general
"what does this player have to do to counter my strategy? If it is very risky they will not be able to do it!"
3Bet Sizing
IP: 3x
OOP: 4x
Adjusting higher or lower depending on the effective stack sizes
-For BB we should 3bet biggest sizing and split the range properly
Reasons to 3bet preflop:
-build history with opponent: helps get paid off when we have a loose image
-makes us tough to play against (do we like getting 3betted? No? That is being hard to play against)
-isolating players and getting the pot heads up/clearing our equity
-taking initiatives with flop cbets and turn barrels
7. Flatting Fundamentals
-generally hands strong enough to vpip vs open but not good enough to 3bet for value + too good to 3bet as a bluff
-in ICM we may want to flat more hands rather than 3bet
Passive table: flat more hands (no aggro players to 3bet squeeze often)
Good spots to TRAP monsters preflop:
1) Aggressive players behind (BTN, Blinds)- make sure villain has a stack of (40bb+) as 20bb villain are often not 3bet shoving often enough
2) PSKO with players behind shortstacked with big bounty
3) Flatting as a trap from earlier position is better as there are more players behind to squeeze
4) The more shortstacks behind the more the value of flatting as a trap goes up (does not have to be an aggro opponent!)
-> aggro squeezer - more than 30bb and normal players with 20bb or less
8. Squeezing Fundamentals
-Only squeeze value hands in low/mid stakes
Squeezing weak hands: only do it in classic spots such as SB/BTN vs MP open and late position flat
-we would be doing more flatting in BB (never bluff squeeze off BB in low stakes)
-> only do this in late stages/final tables when pressure is high and fish will be folding (earlier stages fish are never folding!)
Spots to squeeze:
1) Loose opener (high RFI%)
2) Loose/passive with large VPIP/PFR gap
3) Later positions for both flatter and opener
4) We are on BTN or SB
Playing vs a Squeeze
-if they are normal/tight stats: we play very straight forward and just fold (do not worry about getting exploited)
-if they are aggro and capable: fold the bottom of our range, flat good hands + include some shoving hands with good blockers (vs very aggro 3bettors)
-just think someone is representing vs how likely they will have that range
-> e.g. chip leader on FT may be over 3betting than other spots
-if they are in the non standard steal position (EP and MP) then we can give them credit and not be sticky.. EVEN IF THEY ARE LOOSE AND AGGRO
9. Push/Fold Fundamentals
-good players take risks for relatively small edges (knowing when to push or call all-ins)
DO NOT TAKE EVERY +EV CHIP SPOT (we do not want to invest too marginal spots)
-> always think "is this worth risking my tournament life in this spot?"- "can I find a better spot?"
STOP JAMMING SMALL PAIRS UTG (15bb+)
Open shoving tighter if we have big bounty on our head + if ICM is high
Reshoving (always look at their RFI and calling preflop GAP)
Factors to consider:
-how many players behind? (more players behind = tighter we have to play)
-their RFI% stats
-> game scenario (if it is stone bubble and chip leader raised)
-their RFI% and calling shove% gap (the higher = the more we can reshove)
-if their gap is high that means they will be raise folding A LOT: therefore we can exploit this by reshoving very wide
10. General Preflop Tips
a) if a fish vary their preflop sizes, larger usually means better hands
b) a fish coldcalling a jam is usually weak especially in PSKO
c) people trap way less than we think (do not make many massive preflop folds)
d) people induce a lot less than they do and if we see it we should always note it (e.g. if we see open jam 15bb with JJ we can suspect they only induce with QQ+ at most)
Golden Rule PostFlop
1. Our perceived range is the most important factor
2. Always play the line we believe is the most profitable
3. Do not get sticky in spots they are never bluffing
4. Give up barrels early game and bluff barrel more during late game
5. Be aware of opponents' preflop range at all times
6. Avoid lines that we do not realize equity of our draws (e.g. check raise OESD and having to fold when getting shoved on)
7. IP: betting more frequent at smaller sizes
8. OOP: betting less frequent at bigger sizes
BE THE PLAYER PUTTING PEOPLE IN TOUGH SPOTS
BUT: we are FOLDING when others are doing it to us
Playing Flop IP
-Value betting, bluffing, semi-bluffing and protection bet
Adjustments for IP: betting more often at smaller sizing in general
SPR: is their stack going to check jam often?
Do I have good barrel opportunities? (backdoor draws etc.)
What is their check/raise% from BB?
Villain's fold to cbet stat
Is my hand good enough for 3 streets? If no we can start by checking flop
What position is villain's range?
-visualize this and adjust according to board texture (do not auto pilot)
Blockers when cbetting
-blocking front door and backdoor draws (meaning villain cannot continue or check jam on us)
e.g. KsTd on 6dJs8s
-use this theory when deciding whether to bet a certain hand or not
Checking back flop
-hands that can continue turns but not enough to start value betting flop
-hands with lots of equity but do not want to get check raised
-pure air hands (has no equity and not enough fold equity)
-pot control (hands that do not have 3 streets: good for late stages and ICM spots)
-traps (look at what hands we're blocking when deciding to trap)
Facing Flop Check raise
-proper cbet% is already a counter to checkraises (have a good cbet frequency!)
-pay attention to who is checkraising, if it is a tight fish/reg we do not want to defend too many marginal hands as they are underbluffing
-focus on board texture, where certain board texture are way underbluffed on and others are overbluffed by population
GENERALLY: the drier the board the more checkraise bluffing and vice versa
e.g. Q72rb is less bluffed on than 673rb etc
-continue with hands that has good backdoor equity as we may pick up more equity to give us easy turn calls where it forces villain to either let us get to showdown or triple barrel bluff
-fastplay good hands on wet board textures + consider how aggro villain is to barrel multistreet bluffs
-slowplay our strong hands on dry textures vs aggro check raisers
FOLD THE BOTTOM OF OUR RANGE EACH STREET
Barrelling Turn
When to continue as a bluff?
-scare cards (cards that are perceived to hit our range + are bad for opponent's flop call range)
-pressure + deep in tournaments
-when we pick up equity (usually our backdoors)
-> however, look at SPR and how likely they are check/jamming in order for us to not get blown off our equity (generally check back when SPR is low to realize our equity)
When to continue for value?
-3 streets of value hands (make sure sizing for river jam)
-to buy a showdown: marginal value hands that do not want to face a large river lead
-protection: hands that are not good enough for 3 streets but still want to charge draws + protect our equity
Bluffing River
6 factors to consider:
1) Do I have any showdown value? No- consider a bluff
2) Am I at the bottom of my range? Having the bottom hands does not mean we should always bluff: it gives a good indication for frequencies as we are value betting top of our range
3) Has my opponent shown weakness? think about the line they took and whether they showed weakness at some point indicating a weak range (if yes it is harder for them to call our bluff)
4) Can I represent a value bet? If we bet the river what does our range look like?
-> always think about what level villain may be and even if we represent a strong range a fish may not be able to figure that out
5) Do I block any of their best value combos? e.g. blocking the nut flush
6) Tournament stage pressure or ICM pressure? e.g. putting opponent to call for their tournament life on the FT or very deep stage
The more factors going for us, the better our bluffing would be
If only has 1-2 factors then we may be selective with our bluffing hands or avoid bluffing completely
If we have 3-4 factors going for us we can still bluff but we also need to give up some hands
If 5-6 factors, we need to bluff
Bluff Sizings
-always think what we're trying to make them fold
-> weak hand/busted draw? --- bet small (25% to 50% pot)
-> big hands such as top pairs/middle pairs or better? --- bet big (75% to overbet)
-think about what line they took and how strong their range is
-> if they showed a lot of strength then we then we need to bet bigger (overbet) and if they show a lot of weakness then betting small is all what is needed
-consider blockers: block most nutted hands = bet BIG, block no nutted hand but do not block missed draw? bet small
Consider who we are trying to bluff: vs fish we want to underbluff and bet small when bluffing
- when we have value bet we just size it up vs these stations!
Cbetting OOP
Key Adjustments from IP
-much lower frequency
-> 65% IP and 35% OOP
-vs good opponents they will float and raise wide and exploit us
-vs weaker players we can still cbet wide OOP
-cbet % highest vs BTN and lowest % vs UTG1 (the earlier the position flatting the less we can cbet)
POLARIZED RANGE WHEN CBETTING OOP
-usually bet bigger sizings OOP
-cbet hands that have barrel opportunities when OOP to counter wide flop floats (plan to double barrel often)
-if we have 3 streets: bet bet bet from OOP
Check-Raising OOP
Check Raising as PFA: polarized range
-hands that are good enough to check/raise and bet turn + jam river (for both value and bluffs)
-best flops to attack on:
1) high card with 2 medium low cards- Q73r, K93r J54r, T23r
-> players will often over stab these boards when checked to
2) best hands for our bluffs: 2 overcards (AK on Q52) or 1 over with backdoor flushdraw (AJdd on Q52d)
Check Raising as Cold Caller
-pay attention to what position opened and what their range is
-look at board texture and see whether flop is good or bad for their range
-> if board texture is bad for their range and they have high cbet% we can over check raise them to exploit
* best hands to use as bluffs *
- 1 over + backdoor flush draws (K7dd on Q56d) (Q9hh on J57h)
-If we do not have enough equity to go all in with our flush draws (undercard flush draws) then do not raise these draws! (DO NOT RAISE OESD and FD if SPR is small except if we want to stack off happily)
-Do not use gutshots as bluffs unless it is a very weak gutshots (better as floats)
RAISE HANDS THAT HAS NO IMPLIED ODDS
* best hands to use for value*
-from later position (BB vs BTN/CO), any decent top pair (Q57, QT+ for value)
-from earlier positions we need to be more polarized as we are facing a tighter range (KQ on Q52 vs UTG would be marginal but vs BTN would be printing)
As a rule: check raise bluff vs fish WAY MORE and be more balanced vs regs+ lean towards value vs aggro/sticky regs
Checking Flop OOP
-give up total air especially on boards that favor our opponent (A2dd on Q5Thh)- here we are always check folding
Check Calling Flop
-hands with 2 streets of value (QTs on QJ5r)
-underpairs to top pair (99 on J84r)
-Ace highs, AK/AQ on T82 vs small bets (we can also check raise these hands if we have backdoors)
-include traps vs spewy opponents (e,g, AJ on J82 when villain is very loose and aggressive)
-when we check/call people will perceive us as weak thus barrel off more often (we need to have good FORESIGHT therefore we can start trapping)
-think about what hands we're blocking when going for traps (e.g. JJ on J53 may be a good trap while 55 will make more sense to play straight forward)
Playing Turns OOP
Use hand reading skills and range awareness
-did the turn card improve his range or mine?
-do I have equity to value bet or fold equity to bluff?
Think of the starting range and narrow that range down each street based on the actions
-in general overcard to flop top pair will be better for the aggressors range (K turn on J54)
-> do not be scared to still value bet our flop top pairs and flop overpairs as we still have many natural bluffs in these spots
-when the turn card completely changes the board texture we need to re evaluate and be more careful with both value and bluffs
e.g. J92ss board and turn is 7s or Qx or 8x or Jx
-> all of these cards completely changes the board thus AA becomes passive hand
-> here our bluffs need to be around premium blockers to obvious draws when the texture changes (e.g. nut flush draws so they cannot continue)
-on brick turn and rivers, we want to unblock draws in order to bluff as we want villain to have many snap folds
Turn Bet Sizings
-are we setting up river all in?
-> plan sizing accordingly for us to go all in on the river
-size up on wet board textures especially double flush draws or flush draw with 3 straight cards
(we want to pick a sizing that makes their draws have a tough decision)
-Only bet small sizing (25%) on boards that have a lock on the hand (4 spades or 9943r)
Hero Calls/Folds
"Does the line make sense?"
-easiest way to spot a line that does not add up is when they are taking actions on boards that do not match with their preflop range
-Their sizings
-> players often pick different sizes when they are bluffing vs when they are valuebetting
-Betting big to act "strong" and betting small to act "weak"
-Our perceived range
-> if villain thinks we have a good hand they will not try to make us fold
-villain only tries to bluff us when our perceived range is weak
-> always think what "it looks like we have" in villain's eyes which can be the key to figuring out the psychology behind the actions
-Their perceived range
-> what they think we think they have
-> if their range is perceived strong they may have higher bluffing frequency (only for regs)
-Big stack bluff syndrome
-> players are much more likely to bluff all in when its not their stack at risk
Piecing All of This Together
-look at all of the factors rather than just separate ones
Other factors to consider:
- Timing (very quick all ins could mean that they often have it)
- Game flow (who's been winning/losing and who's on tilt etc.)
- Opponent history (if villain sees us bluffing vs them they will adjust)
- Population tendencies (some spots are just no bluffs)
- Opponent hud stats/average buy-in
If we're not sure just make the FOLD
-if we want to be the best player, we need to do things other players are afraid of doing
PSKO
-play much looser if we cover bounties behind
-play A LOT tighter when you are below 30BB (shortstacked)
-jamming ranges change significantly depending on our bounty (jamming TIGHTER shortstacked with bounty)
-> 98s maybe a open shove in freezeout 10BB but be a fold in PSKO
-> therefore we want to have high card hands when open shoving rather than marginal hands
-play postflop to get bounty by the river (bet big instead of 30% etc.)- only if bounty is quite big
-preflop TRAPPING is key in PSKO! we should have a strong flatting range is good vs many shortstacks behind
-do not chase bounties too wide especially when it is relatively small
-> also do not chase bounties too wide closer to the win as chips are worth more than the bounties
-should aim to survive in late stages of PSKO rather than collecting bounties
Adjusting your range drastically with very short bounty behind (players will open wider, 3bet wider and 4bet wider so on)
Never bluff all-in when we're covered by a fish for our bounty (especially vs a fish)
Defending wider when we're covering and defending tighter if we're covered
Final Tables
-avoid raise folding with shortstacked (less than 20bb) as villain is more incentivised to 3bet wider
-if we are a big stack and we see a mid stack open raising too wide we can exploit this by 3bet jamming very wide (ICM)
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