MTTs Holdem Bible
The best players are the ones that can avoid the most marginal spots, avoiding the most negative EV plays and consistently making +EV plays
-Open raising following the charts for 30bb, 20bb and 15bb (MTT Mastery)
Power-Equilab's Range
Factors to consider to open wider/tighter than the charts:
Open wider:
1) Weak players behind + in the blinds
2) Whales/punters in any position behind
3) Big bounties behind
4) Big stacks playing at the bubble (ICM PRESSURE)
Open tighter:
1) Regs behind + in the blinds
2) Loose/aggressive players on CO or BTN
-vs players that are 3betting us alot, we need to have 4bet shoving range in order to fight back against their aggression
Deeper stacked, we tend to favor more implied odd hands whereas shorter stacked we favor blockers and high card type hands
Opening Sizes
Deeper stacked, we tend to favor more implied odd hands whereas shorter stacked we favor blockers and high card type hands
Opening Sizes
1) If the blinds are very shortstacked >10bb - we want to raise 2.5x+ in order to prevent them from defending junk
Blind vs Blind
40bb+ - we raise 4x
15-40bb- we raise 3.5x
>15bb- we raise 3x
Pay attention to players that may be on tilt- we can flat wider to let them into the pot or punt off their stack preflop
3-Betting
We want to 3bet looser vs opponents that are opening wider ranges
-we look at RFI% of villain to determine whether we need to include 3-bet bluffs in our range:
(BU: 55% CO: 32% MP: 25%)
If we decide that villain is opening too wide, we can exploit this by turning the bottom of our calling range into a bluff (e.g. ATo on SB vs CO, A2s SB vs MP)
If we think villain is opening quite tight, we can exploit this by having no 3-bet bluff and 3-bet only for value
Generally, the later the position villain opens mean the wider we can 3-bet for value and bluffs
+ we want to isolate 3-bet vs fish to get the pot heads up (suited broadways, AJo+)
Late stages of MTTs could mean that we can 3bet bluff much more as most players are scared money and not willing to 4-bet shove as a counter
Playing vs 3-bet
Look at villain's stats to determine whether they are tight or loose
vs tight opponents, we can exploit their 3bets by simply folding our entire range except premium hands
vs aggressive opponents, we can exploit by folding the bottom of our range, flatting some good hands and 4-bet shove some hands with good blockers (AXs where we block villain's AA)
-3betting stat of more than 4% means we can 4bet shove hands such as KQs, 99+
-3bet stat of BU vs CO of 7% or less- we 4bet tighter
-3bet stat of BU vs CO of >10%, we 4bet lighter
We tend to look at their 3-betting position: EP and MP could mean they have a stronger 3-betting range thus we defend less and get less sticky
-vs SB/BTN and CO 3-bet we can defend more hands (only if villain's stats is quite aggressive)
Always consider ICM spots where we could fold some marginally strong hands preflop vs 3-bets
3-Betting
We want to 3bet looser vs opponents that are opening wider ranges
-we look at RFI% of villain to determine whether we need to include 3-bet bluffs in our range:
(BU: 55% CO: 32% MP: 25%)
If we decide that villain is opening too wide, we can exploit this by turning the bottom of our calling range into a bluff (e.g. ATo on SB vs CO, A2s SB vs MP)
If we think villain is opening quite tight, we can exploit this by having no 3-bet bluff and 3-bet only for value
Generally, the later the position villain opens mean the wider we can 3-bet for value and bluffs
+ we want to isolate 3-bet vs fish to get the pot heads up (suited broadways, AJo+)
Late stages of MTTs could mean that we can 3bet bluff much more as most players are scared money and not willing to 4-bet shove as a counter
Playing vs 3-bet
Look at villain's stats to determine whether they are tight or loose
vs tight opponents, we can exploit their 3bets by simply folding our entire range except premium hands
vs aggressive opponents, we can exploit by folding the bottom of our range, flatting some good hands and 4-bet shove some hands with good blockers (AXs where we block villain's AA)
-3betting stat of more than 4% means we can 4bet shove hands such as KQs, 99+
-3bet stat of BU vs CO of 7% or less- we 4bet tighter
-3bet stat of BU vs CO of >10%, we 4bet lighter
We tend to look at their 3-betting position: EP and MP could mean they have a stronger 3-betting range thus we defend less and get less sticky
-vs SB/BTN and CO 3-bet we can defend more hands (only if villain's stats is quite aggressive)
Always consider ICM spots where we could fold some marginally strong hands preflop vs 3-bets
Look at the position villain is 3betting from and their perceived range
-some villain has no bluffs at all thus we can overfold JJ, QQ when we're deeper stacked
-same goes for AK where we can flat and fold to cbet
Flat-Calling
We want to flat call hands that are strong enough to VPIP but not strong enough to 3-bet for value
- however these hands are too strong to to turn into a 3-bet bluff
Generally, we want to flat-call more on passive tables where opponents are not squeezing often behind (we get to realize our equity more often)
Factors to consider deciding to 3-bet or flat:
1) If there are fish behind (in the blinds)- we want to flat more rather than 3bet
2) If there are regs behind (in the blinds)- we want to 3bet more
Defending
Always think about how our range play vs villain's opening range (think in terms of RFI% rather than solely positions) e.g. 45% - BTN range and 25% = MP range
e.g. 87o vs UTG is better than K4o as we are not often dominated
whereas K4o vs BTN is better than 87o as we can flop better top pairs
Flat-Calling
We want to flat call hands that are strong enough to VPIP but not strong enough to 3-bet for value
- however these hands are too strong to to turn into a 3-bet bluff
Generally, we want to flat-call more on passive tables where opponents are not squeezing often behind (we get to realize our equity more often)
Factors to consider deciding to 3-bet or flat:
1) If there are fish behind (in the blinds)- we want to flat more rather than 3bet
2) If there are regs behind (in the blinds)- we want to 3bet more
Defending
Always think about how our range play vs villain's opening range (think in terms of RFI% rather than solely positions) e.g. 45% - BTN range and 25% = MP range
e.g. 87o vs UTG is better than K4o as we are not often dominated
whereas K4o vs BTN is better than 87o as we can flop better top pairs
vs later position open: we are jamming most pairs under 30bbs
Consider the player type of the opener:
vs fish- we want to defend more
vs reg- we want to fold more
Consider villain's barreling frequency and fold to 3-bet stats:
vs passive opponents- we want to defend more
vs aggressive opponents- we want to defend less
Consider ICM and Final Table spots
-we play wider when having larger stacks
-we play tighter when having smaller stacks
Consider Bounty
-play wider if we cover villain's bounty
-play tighter if villain covers our bounty
Squeezing
We want to only squeeze value hands in low/mid stakes*
**Never squeeze in very soft games**- fishes are never folding!
Instead of squeezing as a bluff in soft games, we increase our value squeeze range as fish will flat any broadway hands that are dominated by our specific range (AJs, KQs)
However, we may look to squeeze weak hands during later stages/final tables when:
1) Loose opener (high RFI%)
2) Loose/passive caller with large VPIP/PFR gap *very important!
3) Later position opener and flatter
We want to squeeze hands such as A2s but flat hands like JTs
Reshoving
We always look for villain's RFI% and calling 3bet% gap
-if the gap is high, we can reshove more profitably
We want to consider reshoving when:
1) Loose opener with high RFI% and low calling 3bet%
2) Re-shove wider vs loose openers (turning bottom of our calling range into a bluff)
3) Re-shove tighter vs tight openers (low RFI% and VPIP)
If we decide to re-shove, we pick mostly suited broadways and AXs/o which are too weak to flat call
Push/Fold
Do not take every +EV chip spots
-always try to pick the best spots to invest our tournament life in
"can we find a better spot?"
Open shoving tighter if we have big bounty + ICM is high
POST FLOP
Bet Sizes:
Always think what part of villain's range we are targeting:
Busted draws, airs: we bet small (33%)
Weak pairs, Ace highs: we bet big (66%)
Top pairs, straights or flushes: we overbet (100-200%)
Playing IP as PFA
FLOP
Betting:
Generally want to c-bet at very high frequency at smaller sizings
-except when board texture favors villain's range too much (e.g. 567r UTG vs BB)
Checking back:
Hands that needs pot controlling (middle pair etc.)
Playing vs aggro opponents where we want to let them bet into us (trapping)
Facing Check/Raise:
Always think what player type he is: tight or aggro?
Always let go of the weakest parts of our range
Consider the player type of the opener:
vs fish- we want to defend more
vs reg- we want to fold more
Consider villain's barreling frequency and fold to 3-bet stats:
vs passive opponents- we want to defend more
vs aggressive opponents- we want to defend less
Consider ICM and Final Table spots
-we play wider when having larger stacks
-we play tighter when having smaller stacks
Consider Bounty
-play wider if we cover villain's bounty
-play tighter if villain covers our bounty
Squeezing
We want to only squeeze value hands in low/mid stakes*
**Never squeeze in very soft games**- fishes are never folding!
Instead of squeezing as a bluff in soft games, we increase our value squeeze range as fish will flat any broadway hands that are dominated by our specific range (AJs, KQs)
However, we may look to squeeze weak hands during later stages/final tables when:
1) Loose opener (high RFI%)
2) Loose/passive caller with large VPIP/PFR gap *very important!
3) Later position opener and flatter
We want to squeeze hands such as A2s but flat hands like JTs
Reshoving
We always look for villain's RFI% and calling 3bet% gap
-if the gap is high, we can reshove more profitably
We want to consider reshoving when:
1) Loose opener with high RFI% and low calling 3bet%
2) Re-shove wider vs loose openers (turning bottom of our calling range into a bluff)
3) Re-shove tighter vs tight openers (low RFI% and VPIP)
If we decide to re-shove, we pick mostly suited broadways and AXs/o which are too weak to flat call
Push/Fold
Do not take every +EV chip spots
-always try to pick the best spots to invest our tournament life in
"can we find a better spot?"
Open shoving tighter if we have big bounty + ICM is high
POST FLOP
Bet Sizes:
Always think what part of villain's range we are targeting:
Busted draws, airs: we bet small (33%)
Weak pairs, Ace highs: we bet big (66%)
Top pairs, straights or flushes: we overbet (100-200%)
Playing IP as PFA
FLOP
Betting:
Generally want to c-bet at very high frequency at smaller sizings
-except when board texture favors villain's range too much (e.g. 567r UTG vs BB)
Checking back:
Hands that needs pot controlling (middle pair etc.)
Playing vs aggro opponents where we want to let them bet into us (trapping)
Facing Check/Raise:
Always think what player type he is: tight or aggro?
Always let go of the weakest parts of our range
TURN
Betting:
For value: hands that has 3 streets of value or hands that has 2 streets of value that checked the flop
As a bluff: "did the turn card improve our range or villain's range?"
- bet hands that has equity when called (semi-bluffing) + backdoor hands that picked up equity
Checking back:
Shutting down with bluffs on blank turns (especially vs calling stations!)
Pot controlling when the turn hits villain's range a lot
Facing check/raise
Generally overfold: population check raise on the turn is very strong!
-even on wet boards: raising the turn usually means 2 pairs+ and sets
RIVER
Betting:
For value: if we think we can beat more than 50% of villain's calling range, we should bet for value
-if we think we're beating 75%+ of villain's calling range: we bet big (75%-150% pot)
As a bluff: only bluff hands that has 0% equity (no showdown value) which is often the hands at the bottom of our range
-we generally want to start bluffing in late stages of tournament (ICM)
-we bluff hands with good blockers + when villain's range is capped
-however NEVER BLUFF vs CALLING STATION
Checking back:
When river card improves villain's range (flush completes, straight completes)
If we think villain's range consist of mostly top pairs: never bluff!
Facing Check/Raise:
Generally over-fold!
-population is never turning hands into a bluff on the river thus we can safely exploit this by over folding in most spots
Playing IP as Cold Caller
Facing a bet:
Choose hands to continue with based on their bet sizing
e.g. 33% pot = we defend any pairs, draws and overcards with backdoor draws
whereas 66% pot = we only defend middle pairs+, flush draws and OESDs on wet boards and any draws/bottom pair on dry boards
In general we can defend more hands on dry boards and less hands on wet boards
[however, ALWAYS let go of the worst hands in your range!]
We want to raise with our best value hands, strong draws and semi-bluff (gutshots and backdoors) ONLY vs very aggro opponents
Floating on the Flop
Float more on dry boards rather than wet boards
When we float flop and villain checks turn + river: we can bet very wide as their range is very capped
Facing a check:
Betting:
For value: hands that has 3 streets of value (top pairs or better)
For protection: low top pair hands or middle pair hands that needs protection from scary turn cards
As a bluff: semi-bluff with hands that has equity when called + backdoor hands
- generally we only bet pure bluff as a 1 street bluff: give up turn once get called once
Playing vs Floats
vs players who float wide and fold a lot on the turn: we need to double barrel with our bluffs as their range on the flop is way too wide
TURN & RIVER: play very similarly to IP as PFR
Playing OOP as PFA
FLOP:
Betting:
-only c-bet OOP when villain's flatting range is wide (e.g. UTG vs BTN/CO)
SB vs BB: we are c-betting very wide (70%-90%)
-if we have 3 streets of value vs fish: go bet bet bet even OOP
Checking:
Check/calling: hands with 2 streets of value + hands that needs pot controlling
-we can float Ace highs vs small bets (without backdoors)
Check/folding: give up on dry boards with total air
Betting:
For value: hands that has 3 streets of value or hands that has 2 streets of value that checked the flop
As a bluff: "did the turn card improve our range or villain's range?"
- bet hands that has equity when called (semi-bluffing) + backdoor hands that picked up equity
Checking back:
Shutting down with bluffs on blank turns (especially vs calling stations!)
Pot controlling when the turn hits villain's range a lot
Facing check/raise
Generally overfold: population check raise on the turn is very strong!
-even on wet boards: raising the turn usually means 2 pairs+ and sets
RIVER
Betting:
For value: if we think we can beat more than 50% of villain's calling range, we should bet for value
-if we think we're beating 75%+ of villain's calling range: we bet big (75%-150% pot)
As a bluff: only bluff hands that has 0% equity (no showdown value) which is often the hands at the bottom of our range
-we generally want to start bluffing in late stages of tournament (ICM)
-we bluff hands with good blockers + when villain's range is capped
-however NEVER BLUFF vs CALLING STATION
Checking back:
When river card improves villain's range (flush completes, straight completes)
If we think villain's range consist of mostly top pairs: never bluff!
Facing Check/Raise:
Generally over-fold!
-population is never turning hands into a bluff on the river thus we can safely exploit this by over folding in most spots
Playing IP as Cold Caller
Facing a bet:
Choose hands to continue with based on their bet sizing
e.g. 33% pot = we defend any pairs, draws and overcards with backdoor draws
whereas 66% pot = we only defend middle pairs+, flush draws and OESDs on wet boards and any draws/bottom pair on dry boards
In general we can defend more hands on dry boards and less hands on wet boards
[however, ALWAYS let go of the worst hands in your range!]
We want to raise with our best value hands, strong draws and semi-bluff (gutshots and backdoors) ONLY vs very aggro opponents
Floating on the Flop
Float more on dry boards rather than wet boards
When we float flop and villain checks turn + river: we can bet very wide as their range is very capped
Facing a check:
Betting:
For value: hands that has 3 streets of value (top pairs or better)
For protection: low top pair hands or middle pair hands that needs protection from scary turn cards
As a bluff: semi-bluff with hands that has equity when called + backdoor hands
- generally we only bet pure bluff as a 1 street bluff: give up turn once get called once
Playing vs Floats
vs players who float wide and fold a lot on the turn: we need to double barrel with our bluffs as their range on the flop is way too wide
TURN & RIVER: play very similarly to IP as PFR
Playing OOP as PFA
FLOP:
Betting:
-only c-bet OOP when villain's flatting range is wide (e.g. UTG vs BTN/CO)
SB vs BB: we are c-betting very wide (70%-90%)
-if we have 3 streets of value vs fish: go bet bet bet even OOP
Checking:
Check/calling: hands with 2 streets of value + hands that needs pot controlling
-we can float Ace highs vs small bets (without backdoors)
Check/folding: give up on dry boards with total air
Check/Raising:
For value: hands that are good enough to go all-in with
As a bluff: pick boards that favors our range (1 high card and 2 low cards)- vs aggressive opponents who c-bets a lot
Facing Raises
Generally very strong! (we can overfold straight away)
TURN:
Before deciding to bet or check, always think whether the turn improves villain's range or our range?
Always think in terms of villain's starting range and narrow it down each street!
-villain's range consist of many top pairs? we bet for value and bluff less
-villain's range consist of many draws? we bet big to charge for draws etc.
Betting:
For value: hands that beats villain's calling range + hands that has 2/3 streets of value
As a bluff: "does villain ever fold in this spot?" if no: never bluff!
-we always give up a fraction of our range (bluffs included!) therefore we give up the weakest bluffs in our range (use blockers)
For protection: when we want to charge the draws (usually when boards are very wet) therefore we can bet our middle pairs etc.
Checking:
Check/calling: when turn changes the board completely: if it favors villain's range we need to pot control more
Check/folding: giving up the weakest parts of our range (usually bottom pairs and weak draws)
Check/raising:
For value: usually very strong hands that wants to go all-in (especially on wet boards)
As a bluff: only vs players that can fold!
-we pick hands that block villain's nutted range + only if we think villain's range is fairly weak (never make villain fold a top pair ever)
RIVER
CONNECT THE DOTS
Betting:
For value: hands that can beat 50% of villain's calling range
As a bluff: only bluff vs competent opponents!
-pick hands that has good blockers
-always think what parts of villain's range are we trying to attack?
-> busted draws? bet 33%
-> good hands? overbet
Checking:
Check/calling: most of our bluff catchers + hands that beat some of villain's value range
Check/folding: the weakest bluff catchers + the weakest parts of our range (busted draws etc.)
Check/raising: when the river card hits villain's range
Hero Calls/Folds
Generally we want to over-fold rather than over-call
Only Hero Call if:
1) Villain's line does not make sense (villain starts betting on board that does not match their range)
2) Our perceived range is weak (villain could be bluffing more)
3) Their perceived range (only vs regs)
4) We block villain's nutted hands and unblock their bluff
However, we are still giving up the weakest part of our range: even when bluff catching! (use blockers where we do not block their bluffing range and block their value range)
If we are not sure: just make the FOLD
For value: hands that are good enough to go all-in with
As a bluff: pick boards that favors our range (1 high card and 2 low cards)- vs aggressive opponents who c-bets a lot
Facing Raises
Generally very strong! (we can overfold straight away)
TURN:
Before deciding to bet or check, always think whether the turn improves villain's range or our range?
Always think in terms of villain's starting range and narrow it down each street!
-villain's range consist of many top pairs? we bet for value and bluff less
-villain's range consist of many draws? we bet big to charge for draws etc.
Betting:
For value: hands that beats villain's calling range + hands that has 2/3 streets of value
As a bluff: "does villain ever fold in this spot?" if no: never bluff!
-we always give up a fraction of our range (bluffs included!) therefore we give up the weakest bluffs in our range (use blockers)
For protection: when we want to charge the draws (usually when boards are very wet) therefore we can bet our middle pairs etc.
Checking:
Check/calling: when turn changes the board completely: if it favors villain's range we need to pot control more
Check/folding: giving up the weakest parts of our range (usually bottom pairs and weak draws)
Check/raising:
For value: usually very strong hands that wants to go all-in (especially on wet boards)
As a bluff: only vs players that can fold!
-we pick hands that block villain's nutted range + only if we think villain's range is fairly weak (never make villain fold a top pair ever)
RIVER
CONNECT THE DOTS
Betting:
For value: hands that can beat 50% of villain's calling range
As a bluff: only bluff vs competent opponents!
-pick hands that has good blockers
-always think what parts of villain's range are we trying to attack?
-> busted draws? bet 33%
-> good hands? overbet
Checking:
Check/calling: most of our bluff catchers + hands that beat some of villain's value range
Check/folding: the weakest bluff catchers + the weakest parts of our range (busted draws etc.)
Check/raising: when the river card hits villain's range
Hero Calls/Folds
Generally we want to over-fold rather than over-call
Only Hero Call if:
1) Villain's line does not make sense (villain starts betting on board that does not match their range)
2) Our perceived range is weak (villain could be bluffing more)
3) Their perceived range (only vs regs)
4) We block villain's nutted hands and unblock their bluff
However, we are still giving up the weakest part of our range: even when bluff catching! (use blockers where we do not block their bluffing range and block their value range)
If we are not sure: just make the FOLD
on dynamic board and villain checks back = their range is weak
before deciding to bet or check always figure what their range is and play to exploit that
-e.g. we block villain's top pair = we bet small for value to get called by 2nd pair etc.
before deciding to bluff, always think "is villain ever capable of folding in this spot?"- if the answer is NO then we NEVER bluff this spot
Comments
Post a Comment